The North

My exploration of Fuerteventura started in the northern coastal town of Corralejo. The Canary Islands are a fairly popular tourist hotspot, but Fuerteventura hides it well—inland it’s not unusual to be the only person for miles, with few tourists venturing away from the resorts, and the smaller coastal towns have a distinctly SoCal vibe. 

With more than half the roads unpaved, hitting gravel along the coast is an easy feat—from Corralejo you can ride to the surfer village of Majanicho, which is little more than a few white shacks along the low, black lava-rock shores teeming with surfers getting ready to ride the waves.

The washboard roads can take their toll on a bike but most are easy to ride, taking you along the coast to villages such as El Cotillo and Los Molinos, and to amazing spots like the dunes of Parque Natural de Corralejo, which feels like a slice of the Saharan dunes. Riding inland, other gems include the ancient calderas of Calderón Hondo and Volcanes de Bayuyo.

The north of Fuerteventura is, by far, my favourite. It’s quiet and you can find some amazing, fast gravel roads among hills, aloe vera plantations, canyons, windmills and goat farms. Once back on the pavement, you’re met with immaculate tarmac and respectful motorists, in the best Spanish tradition.

The South

Heading further south, is Tindaya with its sacred mountain, Montaña de Tindaya, considered to possess magical properties by the indigenous inhabitants of Fuerteventura. This solitary mountain, 400 metres high and softly sculpted by millennia of west-to-east winds, stands proudly in the dry, flat landscape.

Although much of Fuerteventura is dust and gravel, there are some stoking tarmac routes—the climb from Antigua to the historical town of Betancuria is one of the island’s iconic road cycling routes. Today, a small but perfectly preserved village, Betancuria was the first capital of the Kingdom of the Canary Islands, and continues to attract visitors year-round with archaeological relics, restaurants and bodegas.

The AirBNB I rented meant I was based in one location for the whole of my stay. With limited public transport, I recommend hiring a car to start rides further out in the landscape—nothing is much more than an hour or two away.

In the south is the uninspiring tourist hell of Morro Jable, where lobster tans, all-inclusive resorts and cookie-cutter holiday homes abound—a completely different vibe from the laid back surfer hotspots in the north—but leaving the car here unlocks the incredible Parque Natural Jandía.

Nothing can prepare you for the amazing views of Fuerteventura’s windswept southern peninsula. The washboard roads are rough, but tailwinds are in good supply, making the ride a bit faster and easier. A short gravel climb takes you to Mirador de Cofete, a small mountain pass overlooking Roque del Moro and Playa de Cofete—possibly the most breathtaking view on the island.

Back on the coast, another gravel road takes you to the southernmost point of the island, Faro de Punta Jandía and Puerto de la Cruz, a small village with many of the homes made of cement-encrusted caravans.

Rumour is the ‘fuerte’ in Fuerteventura’s name—‘strong’ in Spanish—refers to the near-constant winds on the island. At times, riding is not for the faint-of-heart—the crosswinds can make it difficult, if not dangerous. Get past this and you’ll discover an amazing place for a break which makes the bustle of everyday life feel like a distant memory.

With my family spending more and more time on the island in search of perfect weather, I look forward to tasting the dusty air again soon.